When you think of Puerto Vallarta, an image of all-inclusive resorts and typical tourist attractions may spring to mind. Because of time constraints, many vacationers to Vallarta unfortunately miss the rich food, art and culture scene that bubbles beneath the facade. The city is a magnet for talented artists, chefs, writers, musicians and instructors.

I am in PV for a six-month solo writing sojourn and love the blend of metropolitan life with small-town heart.

For those who prefer a homey holiday, cooking here is a pleasure with the neighbourhood markets' availability of freshly picked produce, herbs, cheese, fish, seafood and meat. On Saturdays, the Old Town Farmer's Market is filled with gourmet goodies made by vendors from around the globe.

On Sundays, a similar market is held in La Cruz de Huanacaxtle, a beautiful town an hour north of Vallarta. The friendly ambience and live music are reason enough to go.

The Emiliano Zapata Mercado is a 10-minute walk from Old Town and thrills me each time I visit. The stalls burst with the colour of exotic fruits and vegetables, and you'll find farm-fresh eggs, free-range chicken and meat from local butchers. The 5 de Diciembre Mercado specializes in fish with several good produce stands. There are a few small loncherias inside, including Chicama, with tasty Peruvian-Chinese cuisine served to order by world-class chef Fernando Tomasini.